What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon?

When I decided to travel Lebanon, I had little idea what to expect. There’s not a ton of information on the web, and very few travel bloggers have traveled there or written about it.

It was a bit of a question mark. But that was exactly what I wanted.

My mission has always been to show women how to travel the world safely. At the same time, though, I’ve always felt the urge to be a bit different — to write about places that don’t get the same coverage. In 2010, that meant doing an extended trip exclusively in Southeast Asia (believe it or not, that was very unusual back then!). In 2018, that meant exploring places like Lebanon when every other blogger seems to focus on massively overtouristed destinations like Iceland, Bali, and Barcelona.

And so I went to Lebanon in May 2018. I treated the trip like a fact-finding mission and spent a week exploring the small country as much as possible, experiencing what it’s like to travel Lebanon as a woman on her own so I could share the results with all of you.

So, what’s Lebanon actually like? I’m glad you asked.

Lebanon is much safer than people think it is.

Like many destinations in the Middle East, Lebanon has an unfair reputation. The media paints the image of war, suicide bombers, and riots, but this is nothing like what you would see in Lebanon (or the vast majority of the Middle East) today.

Lebanon has had wars in the past…like from 1975 to 1990. As in it ended when George H. W. Bush was president. More recently, a 34-day war took place in 2006 between Hezbollah and Israeli Defense Forces. That was 12 years ago, when George W. Bush was president. There hasn’t been a war in the 12 years since.

The violence that happens in Lebanon today is random and somewhat rare — not unlike mass shootings in the United States. I would argue that Lebanon is far safer than the US in this regard, as there are far fewer guns in Lebanon and there are checkpoints and military personnel everywhere.

So what does Lebanon actually feel like? It feels peaceful. It feels normal. It feels quite a bit like traveling in the southern Balkans, actually — between the Mediterranean setting, war scars in the distant past, and hovering the line between developing and developed. Not once did I ever feel remotely in danger.

I took safely seriously. I didn’t travel to refugee camps or the unsafe far northeast of the country just for the hell of it, and after hearing mixed reviews from locals, I decided to nix Tripoli, which in retrospect was probably excessively cautious.

This post by Against the Compass is an excellent resource for travel safety in Lebanon. It’s updated periodically with the latest safety information. I encourage you to save it and take a closer look before your trip.

I also recommend checking out the US State Department travel advisory and UK travel safety advice for Lebanon. I find that the US warnings tend to be more alarmist, while the UK warnings tend to be more realistic.

Most importantly, travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — and to anywhere else in the world, frankly. If you need to be hospitalized with a broken bone or appendicitis, or if you have an emergency and miss your trip, or if you get robbed on a bus, travel insurance will help you recoup your financial losses. I use and recommend World Nomads.

It’s a small country — and you can base in Beirut.

Almost everywhere in Lebanon can be reached within 2.5 hours of driving from Beirut. For that reason, I found it most efficient to base myself in Beirut and take day trips from there.

But beyond the convenience, Beirut is such a cool city. Most Middle Easterners consider it to be the most sophisticated city in the region, not least because it’s far more liberal than other parts of the Middle East. I was there during Ramadan and people were still drinking and partying in the streets. (In Dubai, you can’t even eat in public during Ramadan.)

Beirut is home to epic clubs, like B-108, a former bunker where the roof retracts and you dance beneath the stars. You can spend the days sunning yourself at beach clubs with pools or shopping in luxury at the souks. And yes, hipster neighborhoods exist in Beirut — check out Mar Mikhael, or specifically, Gourad/Armenia Street, which is full of tons of cool restaurants and bars.

I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez, which is a nice, if somewhat dated, hotel and is in a central location in the Hamra neighborhood. I paid around $75 per night.

If you love crazy themed hotels, check out the Smallville Hotel— it’s Superman-themed and the the most Instagrammable hotel in the city! I went to a fun meetup there and loved the rooftop bar.

Find deals on hotels in Beirut here.

The infrastructure for travelers is limited.

One thing that sets Lebanon apart from more popular Middle Eastern destinations like Israel, Jordan, Egypt, and the UAE is that there’s much less travel infrastructure. What does that mean?

There are hotels, but they’re more oriented toward business and domestic travelers. Transportation around the country is limited. There is essentially one company with that does day tours around the country and has a web presence. ONE COMPANY. And if you think you’re going to find a tourism office in each town you visit, you’re crazy.

Hell, Lonely Planet doesn’t even have a Lebanon guidebook — just a Lebanon chapter in the Middle East guidebook (which I downloaded to keep on my phone, and I recommend you get it for your trip, too).

That means that travel planning is more of a challenge, and most of your traveling will be amongst locals. That’s one reason why I don’t think Lebanon is a good country for newbie travelers, only more experienced ones.

Most of the other tourists I met in Lebanon were from Europe or other parts of the Middle East. I also met several expats from other countries who were based in Dubai.

Lebanon is home to some of the best Roman ruins in the world.

If you love Ancient Rome in the least, you must check out two outstanding sets of ruins: Baalbek and Anjer. Both are UNESCO World Heritage Sites in the Beqaa Valley. The Jupiter Temple at Baalbek is one of the largest Roman temples on the planet. You don’t appreciate the true scale of it until you’re standing in the middle of it!

Also notable are the ruins of Tyre and Byblos, both of which are perched beautifully on the Mediterranean. Both of those are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, too. Basically, if you’re into ruins, you’ll have a great time in Lebanon.

The driving is INSANE.

A lot of countries have crazy driving, which shouldn’t come as a surprise to a seasoned traveler. Lebanon is yet another one of them.

I always describe crazy driving in other countries as either Vietnamese-style or Maltese-style. In Vietnam, the driving is crazy, but the drivers all follow an established set of (somewhat ludicrous) rules. In Malta, the driving is reckless with no regard for any drivers or pedestrians. In my opinion, Lebanon falls into the Vietnamese category — it’s chaotic, but everyone is on the same page.

For this reason, I don’t recommend driving in Lebanon unless you are an expert driver who relishes driving in crazy environments. We all have a friend who is into challenging driving — this is their place to shine. If that’s not you, I urge you not to drive in Lebanon. You’ll leave with far fewer gray hairs as a result.

Red roses bloom everywhere.

That’s just a lovely perk of traveling in Lebanon. I doubt this happens year-round, but my trip in late May and early June was resplendent with roses. (Related: the rose emoji is very popular in the Arabic-speaking world. Think of it as the Middle East’s “100.”)

It’s very Middle Eastern in parts, and very European in other parts.

Lebanon wears many identities at once. You’ll find mosques and churches practically next door to each other in Beirut. Some Lebanese people speak French and dress western-style, while others speak only Arabic and dress as their ancestors have for centuries. There is also a huge Armenian community in Beirut.

Byblos (Jbeil), for example, felt very European. With the fancy boats, high-end restaurants, and women in sundresses, their long hair flowing, it felt almost literally like Trogir, Croatia, or Budva, Montenegro. Only the souk would tip you off that you were in the Middle East.

But on the bus to Tyre (Sour), women were totally covered up and none spoke any English. That felt much more like Amman or central Turkey. It’s amazing that you can have both of these kinds of experiences within a short drive of Beirut — or even without leaving Beirut!

The Cedars of Lebanon still exist — but they’re a fraction of what they once were.

The Cedars of God are some of the most famous trees in the world. In ancient times, endless forests grew over the mountains in Lebanon. The trees were lauded for their strength and used for shipbuilding and later railroad-building.

But over time, deforestation took the trees away from us, and there are very few left today. I went to see the Cedars of God park, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I almost wish I hadn’t gone — it just left me feeling so sad to see so few cedars left.

Hezbollah controls some territory.

Hezbollah is classified as a terrorist organization by several governments, including the US and EU, and they control some of the land in the eastern part of the country, including the Beqaa Valley. This includes the ruins of Baalbek and Anjer.

This might sound scary on the surface, and there has been violence in this region in the past, but for the most part, it’s a peaceful place to visit today. I visited on a tour (though you can also visit with a hired driver) and we went through several checkpoints, as is customary in Lebanon, but beyond that you wouldn’t notice any difference.

There was one strange thing, though — the yellow Hezbollah flag was for sale everywhere. It was like a souvenir. I did not partake.

To keep an eye on current developments in the Beqaa Valley and other regions in Lebanon, I recommend following this map.

There are so many cool day trips from Beirut.

There are three primary ways to travel around Lebanon:

1. Hire a driver.
2. Take a group tour.
3. Take public transportation.

I decided to try all three of these over the course of my trip.

Hiring a private driver is the best-case scenario because it allows you to time your visits for photography and you’re not on anyone else’s schedule. However, it’s also the most expensive. Most private driver rates start at $185 per day; I was once offered $150 per day; you may be able to bring it down to $100 per day if you have a Lebanese friend who “knows a guy” (and most Lebanese do). That was more than I wanted to spend as a solo traveler.

Because of that, I decided to just use Uber to get myself to Jeita Grotto and Byblos and back to Beirut. There was no wifi at Jeita Grotto (and I had no SIM card), so I bargained a ride with a local to get from the grotto to Byblos. Later, took awhile to find an Uber driver willing to pick me up in Byblos, but I eventually got one!

Here are some of the most popular tours:

• Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara — I did this tour and recommend it. See two sets of ruins (Anjar and Baalbek) that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites, then go wine tasting in Ksara.
• Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya — I did this tour and recommend it if you want to see the Cedars and/or a lot of mountain scenery; otherwise, I don’t think it’s essential. Know that the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Cedars park is tiny, but a nice walk. Bcharré is home to an unremarkable Gibran museum but a GORGEOUS view; Kozhaya is home to a very cool monastery carved into the rocks.
• Byblos, Jeita Grotto and Harissa — I visited Byblos and Jeita Grotto via Uber/taxi but skipped Harissa. I don’t think it’s necessary to do this as a group tour; it’s close to Beirut. I preferred doing my own thing and having time to explore. Byblos is a gorgeous village home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Harissa has outstanding views down to the coast, and Jeita Grotto is home to glorious cave systems underground (and no photography is allowed).
• Tyre, Sidon and Maghdouche — I visited Tyre via public transportation and could have easily added Sidon as well; I don’t think this one is necessary to do as a group tour. Tyre is a great little city home to UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruins; Sidon is famous for its souks and Sea Castle, and Maghdouche has some great views.
• There’s also an Anjar, Baalbek and Kozhaya tour that combines the ruins of the Beqaa Valley with the Cedars in a slightly longer trip. Knowing what I know now, I probably would have done it to give myself an extra day.

As for public transportation, I would have done much more of it if I had known how easy it would be! I simply got an Uber to the minibus station (Cola Intersection), asked for “Sour?” (the Arabic name for Tyre), and got pointed to a bus.

There are some unwritten rules for taking minibuses in Lebanon: ask for the bus you need; the first two rows are unofficially reserved for women; men do not sit next to women unless there’s nowhere else to sit; tell the driver when to stop and pay him on the way out. Women should dress more conservatively (long sleeves and pants) and wear headphones if you don’t want to talk to anyone.

I was treated with so much respect as a solo female traveler.

This was the most pleasant surprise in Lebanon — that I received so much respect. I didn’t know what to expect and was on my guard.

I took the bus from Beirut to Tyre, and I was told by my friend beforehand that the front two rows are unofficially reserved for women, and men don’t sit next to women unless there’s no other room. Well, there wasn’t any room on the way back from Tyre, which made me nervous. But the man who sat next to me left a good six inches between us on the seats.

Can you believe that? Men in New York won’t even close their legs on the subway, aggressively spreading out as much as they can. Lebanon almost made me cry with happiness.

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READ MORE: Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: A Guide

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I also didn’t get stared at, which blew my mind. As a white woman traveling solo, I’m used to being stared at in the Middle East and many other places in the world.

It helped that I dressed more conservatively for the most part, including covering to my elbows, neck, and ankles in more conservative areas, though you could get away with wearing more revealing clothing in Beirut and Byblos.

I must include that Lebanon wasn’t perfect — just as I was marveling about what a good time I was having in Tyre, a man rode by on a bicycle and made kissing noises at me. Well. That happens pretty much everywhere in the world except Japan, so it shouldn’t be surprising. I get harassed three times on the walk home from the subway. It’s part of life as a woman.

Altogether: harassment was minimal, and I was grateful for that.

You will eat SO WELL.

Middle Eastern food is delicious — and Lebanon is often said to have the best food in the region. As soon as I arrived, the first dish I had to have was some moutabal (roasted eggplant and tahini dip) with some mint lemonade.

Lebanon’s cuisine is based on mezze — small plates. You’ll definitely have pita with hummus, falafel, baba ghanouj, tabbouleh, grape leaves, pickled vegetables — and I won’t lie, often French fries. Next up is often a variety of roasted meats, especially lamb or goat or chicken, or seafood if you’re on the coast, with rice or vegetable dishes, or delicious stews. And the coffee is potent, served in tiny cups.

Almost everything that I had in Lebanon was delicious, whether it was a streetside shwarma in Tyre or a plate of square-cut, oil-drenched grilled calamari in Byblos.

Lebanon is also a fantastic destination for vegetarians and vegans. You can always plenty of delicious plant-based options.

There is plenty of wine to enjoy, too.

Lebanon is one of very few Middle Eastern countries where you’ll find a decent wine scene. If you visit the ruins at Baalbek or Anjer, whether on a tour or with a private driver, it’s common to stop at a winery on the way back. We visited Chateau Ksara as part of our Baalbek/Anjer tour, and I would recommend it to others. Enjoy it!

You can go skiing and hit the beach in the same day in Lebanon.

I don’t even ski, but this is something I want to do sometime — go skiing and hit the beach in the same day just because I can. Lots of destinations brag that you can do this — Southern California, Slovenia, Andalusia — and Lebanon is yet another.

Don’t expect the slopes to be on par with Colorado, but there are a number of ski resorts around the country. Then come down to lie on the beach in Byblos or Tyre or at a beach club in Beirut. Just because you can!

Lebanese people are amazing.

People are amazing everywhere, though. I believe that everywhere in the world is made up of 98% wonderful people and 2% assholes. Most people are good people, and if they’re not, they’re probably having a rough day. Lebanon was no exception: I was warmly welcomed everywhere I went.

Arabic hospitality is legendary, though, and I was spoiled again and again by new Lebanese friends I met on my trip. Nobody would let me pay for a thing! It blew my mind.

I bought an orange juice from this mother and son pictured above, and even though they spoke no English and I spoke about five words of Arabic, we tried to communicate with each other as best we could, laughing like crazy. I’m pretty sure they tried to set me up with her older son, showing me Instagram photos of him perched in front of scenic overlooks, a dramatic pout on his face. (This happens a lot when you travel solo!)

To my great surprise, I was constantly asked if I was here visiting family. When I said no, people were often shocked. “But your parents are Lebanese?” they would ask me. (Come to think of it, when I was in Jordan in 2011, my guide Ibrahim told me I couldn’t pass for Jordanian, but I looked like I had one Lebanese parent.) And I feel like I met a ton of people who looked like me in Lebanon. Far more than usual.

Being ethnically ambiguous is hugely beneficial on my travels — I’m able to blend in far more easily than an Irish redhead could. But that has also led to wonderful experiences, where locals have claimed me as one of their own, declaring that their blood must run through my veins — “Look at your eyes! Look at your nose! You’re obviously one of us!”

Lebanon is a great destination for experienced travelers.

I’ll be completely honest here: I would not recommend Lebanon to novice travelers unless you have contacts here, family here, or people willing to host you. It’s a beautiful country, a friendly country, and an interesting country, but it’s not an easy or obvious country in which to travel.

Let me give you an example: when on the minibus back from Tyre, the driver got to Beirut, got sick of the traffic, and decided he just wanted to drop me off in the middle of a major intersection. Lovely. I had to figure out how to cross a multi-lane street, how to flag down a totally-not-official taxi, meaning some random guy in a random car (I had no SIM card, therefore no Uber), and get back to my place from there. Not that hard for a seasoned traveler, but I wouldn’t want to send a newbie traveler into a situation like that!

At the same time, Lebanon is awesome, but it’s not a showstopper. In my opinion, the true showstopper of the Middle East is Jordan. Lebanon whispers rather than sings at the top of its lungs, and sometimes that’s exactly what I want in a destination.

If you’re going to the Middle East for the first time, I still recommend Jordan above all. Jordan has the best mix of safety, outstanding cultural sites, natural beauty, a wide variety of things to do, and infrastructure for travelers. I think it outdoes Lebanon on almost every level, though I think Beirut is a much cooler city than Amman.

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READ MORE:

Jordan: The Perfect Introduction to the Middle East

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But if you’ve already done some travel in the Middle East and you’re looking for an interesting new destination, and especially if you’re looking for a cool major city, Lebanon is a fabulous choice for you.

And at this point in time, it’s still a relatively offbeat destination. In an age where everyone is going to Iceland and Bali and Barcelona, Lebanon makes a nice change from everyone else in your Instagram feed.

Lebanon pairs well with some destinations — and poorly with others.

One reason why I visited Lebanon was because I was planning to visit Cyprus, pictured above, and the two countries are only a 45-minute flight apart. It was natural to pair them together! The two countries have so much in common in some ways, but are completely different in others.

I flew to Beirut from Amsterdam via Istanbul on Pegasus Airlines, which makes Turkey a great destination to combine with Lebanon. Thanks to direct flights, you can easily combine Lebanon with a trip to Jordan, Egypt, or the UAE.

However, Lebanon does not pair well with Israel. You can’t visit Lebanon if you have evidence of Israel or the Palestinian Territories in your passport (and even though Israeli officials often don’t stamp your passport, Lebanese officials look for exit stamps from Jordan or Egypt). Israel will let you in with a Lebanon stamp, but expect to be grilled about your visit.

How to get around this? Fly into Israel and don’t let them stamp you. Or renew your passport before going to Lebanon. Or get a second passport, if your country allows you to do so (the US does). Or just visit Israel after Lebanon.

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READ NEXT:

Solo Female Travel in Lebanon: Is it Safe?

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Essential Info: For my trip I bought the Lebanon chapter in Lonely Planet’s Middle East guidebook, which I downloaded on my phone and found very useful.

In Lebanon I stayed at the Radisson Blu Martinez in Beirut, which was a quality, if dated, hotel and was centrally located in the Hamra neighborhood. Rates from $75.

In Beirut and sometimes beyond (as far as Byblos), I used Uber to get around. It was cheap and easy. I recommend getting a SIM card if you can; I didn’t and it made it impossible to summon Ubers when I didn’t have wifi.

During my trip I took three tours: the Free Walking Tour of Beirut (remember to tip your guide), a paid day trip to Cedars, Bcharré, and Kozhaya, and a paid day trip to Anjar, Baalbek, and Ksara. I traveled independently via public minibus to Tyre via Sidon (Saïda) and via Uber and taxi to Jeita Grotto and Byblos.

Bring good shoes to Lebanon. I have bad arches and live in comfy but cute shoes from The Walking Company. I strongly recommend black ABEO flats, which have fantastic arch support. I wore them every day in Lebanon. You might also like a pair of black boots if you’re visiting in the chillier months.

Bring a crossbody purse that zips to keep your belongings close and safe. Amazon has lots of affordable options. If you want to spend more, Rebecca Minkoff makes some of the best. You can also check out my guide to the best travel purses.

Travel insurance is essential for trips to Lebanon — whether you trip on the steps at Baalbek’s temples and break your ankle, or get robbed on a bus in Beirut, or if you have to cancel your trip due to an emergency, travel insurance will sort you out. I use and recommend World Nomads.

Have you traveled to Lebanon? Does it seem like your kind of destination?

The post What’s it Really Like to Travel Lebanon? appeared first on Adventurous Kate.

from Adventurous Kate https://www.adventurouskate.com/whats-it-really-like-to-travel-lebanon/

Nikon Z7 Firmware Update Wishlist

Without a doubt, camera firmware is one of the most important parts of any modern digital camera, and this is especially true for mirrorless cameras that have a lot more electronics compared to DSLRs. The Nikon Z7 is Nikon’s first attempt at getting into the mirrorless market. Considering that it is a first generation camera of its kind for the company, it is already highly capable and solid, something that cannot be said about other mirrorless camera launches we have seen in the past. However, just like any first generation product, the Nikon Z7 has its list of issues that we would like to see addressed in upcoming firmware updates as soon as possible. In this article, we will take a look at critical firmware updates that Nikon should deliver for the Z7, as well as a wishlist of updates we would like to see on the camera to make it even more appealing to the masses.

from Photography Life https://photographylife.com/nikon-z7-firmware-update-wishlist#utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=nikon-z7-firmware-update-wishlist

Changing My Tune: How I Learned to Love L.A.

Posted: 11/29/18 | November 29th, 2018

Maybe it was the traffic. Maybe the smog. Maybe it was the apparent vanity of everyone I met. Or the hippie-dippie way of life (I’ve seen people pick meals by using a crystals). I know it was definitely in part the lack of public transportation.

While I could never really put my finger on it, there was just something about Los Angeles that just always rubbed me the wrong way.

I’d go to see friends or attend conferences and, while I enjoyed that fun, I hated the city itself.

Whenever I had to go visit, I’d just think to myself “Ugh, another trip to L.A.!”

I just never got the city.

After each visit, I always felt that if I never returned, I wouldn’t be missing anything.

Heck, I even wrote a blog post about my disdain for LA!

And then one day while I was ivisitng, I woke up and I really liked — nay, LOVED — Los Angeles.

I don’t know when it happened.

I can’t pinpoint one precise moment or event.

After all, my routine in LA has always been the same: see a few attractions, eat and drink lots, catch up with friends, maybe head to the beach, some work at WeWork, and host a meet-up.

But, one day, I just woke up, looked around, and said, “Ya know, I really like it here. I think I’ll extend my stay a bit longer.”

The more I visited, the more interesting places I discovered or was taken to, the more offbeat sights I saw, and the more I got to know the city. I learned its history. I learned how to get around, when to brave the traffic and when not to. I found markets and hole-in-the-wall taquerias and noodle shops. I had too many martinis at the historic Musso & Frank’s.

And then, when I was there last week, it hit me.

I realized I hated LA for the same reason I originally hated Bangkok.

And now love LA for the same reasons I fell in love with Bangkok.

Los Angeles isn’t built for tourists.

Yes, tourists go there. Yes, there are a lot of touristy things to do there.

But it’s not like Hong Kong, Paris, Buenos Aires, London, Sydney, or other places where you can go down a long list of attractions, drink in the culture, get around easily, and get a feel for the city in a short period of time.

No, the sprawling nature of Los Angeles, the traffic and cost of getting around, the lack of a city center, and the transient nature of its inhabitants makes it a bad “tourist” city.

To get to know Los Angeles, you have to live there. Just like Bangkok.

Like Bangkok, L.A. is requires you to stay awhile. It’s an onion with layers you need to peel back over time.

L.A. is found in the restaurants, markets, ethnic enclaves, offbeat bars, and coffee shops. It is found on hiking trails and beaches. In art and music shows.

It’s found in the vibe and the people, not in the sights.

I began to love Bangkok when I got know it beyond the temples and the tourist trail. When I found hidden markets and amazing street stalls frequented only by locals, became friends with residents, and understood how it operated, I knew why people loved Bangkok so much.

Bangkok is not a city for tourists.

It’s for residents.

Just like Los Angeles.

When I realized that, I stopped looking at Los Angeles through the lens of a tourist. When I began to look at through the eyes of the people who lived there, suddenly the city becomes alive with things to do, coffeeshops to sit in, and places to explore.

It turns out L.A. is an awesome city if you know where to look.

I just never knew where to look before.

Book Your Trip to Los Angeles: Logistical Tips and Tricks

Book Your Flight
Find a cheap flight by using Skyscanner or Momondo. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.

Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. I use them all the time. Here are suggested places to stay in Los Angeles:

• USA Hostels – Located right between Hollywood Boulevard and Sunset Strip, this spot is awesome with privacy pods and ensuite dorms.
• HI Los Angeles Santa Monica – A comfortable hostel where all the beach action is in Santa Monica.
• Banana Bungalow – A social hostel in Hollywood with a great outdoor courtyard area (and regular BBQs!).

Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. I’ve been using World Nomads for ten years. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:

• World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
• Insure My Trip (for those over 70)

Looking for the best companies to save money with?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel! I list all the ones I use to save money when I travel – and I think will help you too!

Looking for more information on visiting Los Angeles?
Check out my in-depth destination guide to LA with more tips on what to see, do, costs, ways to save, and much, much more!

The post Changing My Tune: How I Learned to Love L.A. appeared first on Nomadic Matt's Travel Site.

from Nomadic Matt's Travel Site https://www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-blogs/loving-los-angeles/

A Girls’ Getaway to Williamsburg, Virginia

One of my biggest travel pet peeves is having technically visited somewhere, but not really. For example, I’ve visited the state of Virginia several times since I was a teenager, but only one town: Arlington, a suburb adjacent to Washington, DC, and only used as a place to sleep. So while I’ve technically been to Virginia, it feels like I’m cheating. It’s almost like there’s an asterisk after my visits.

So when I got the opportunity to visit Greater Williamsburg in southeast Virginia, I was eager to finally get rid of that asterisk and give Virginia the attention it deserves. While it’s only one little corner of the state (though Virginia is technically a commonwealth, as are Kentucky, Pennsylvania, and my home state of Massachusetts), getting to see three different towns allowed me to experience much more than I had in Arlington.

Even better: this wouldn’t be a solo trip but a GIRLS’ TRIP with my friend Oneika the Traveller.

Oneika and I have hung out around the world — in New York, London, Hong Kong, and Bangkok — but we had never actually traveled together before. (Or, now that I think about it, ever spent time together anywhere that wasn’t a megacity!)

And a great girls trip it was — completely with conventional girls trip activities (Spa treatments! Brunch! Gossiping about literally everyone we’ve ever met!) and some less conventional (making music videos singing along to Ginuwine’s “Pony” in our VW Beetle!).

Why go to Greater Williamsburg?

Say “Williamsburg” and the word “Colonial” is probably what comes to mind. Colonial Williamsburg bills itself as the world’s largest living history museum, with forty sites to visit, four historic taverns, and two museums. It’s absolutely worth the visit.

What I loved most is that the people who work at Colonial Williamsburg are so passionate about what they do. It goes beyond simply wearing eighteenth century clothing and checking your tickets on the way in — all of them are well versed in the history and culture of the time period, and you’ll see several of them engaged in activities typical of the time, from embroidery to blacksmithing. Ask a Colonial Williamsburg employee a question and don’t be surprised if you end up chatting for ten minutes!

Technically visitors can walk around Colonial Williamsburg for free, but visiting several of the homes, trades, and other sites requires a ticket. (We used our tickets on the one rainy day we had, which was smart in retrospect, as we got to explore the outside on sunnier days.)

My favorite place that we visited was the George Wythe house, with its bright and colorful rooms.

I mean, if you can make an avocado-green dining room look good, you’re clearly doing something right.

One night on a lark, Oneika and I ended up visiting one of those historic taverns: Christiana Campbell’s, which apparently was a favorite of George Washington.

We were served seafood by candlelight, had napkins tied around our necks, and were served “spoon bread” — an underdone, almost pudding-like cornbread served out of a cast iron pan with a spoon. I could have eaten that spoon bread all night!

(Let me share a somewhat related story: I was 12 years old and on one of my school’s many field trips to historic Salem, Massachusetts. We were on a bus tour and the guide said, “George Washington slept here. He also slept everywhere, and that’s why he’s the Father of our Country.” We EXPLODED. To a busload of seventh graders, that was the funniest joke on the planet and one that we repeated ad infinitum for the rest of the year.)

One Great College Town

Williamsburg is home to the College of William and Mary, the second oldest college in the United States (only Harvard predates it), founded in 1693. The William and Mary campus is pushed up against Colonial Williamsburg, so it integrates well with the town.

I absolutely love college towns, especially towns home to smaller liberal arts schools like William and Mary. They have a great energy and excitement to them. There are lots of intellectual events taking place. If a major political event happens, you can bet there will be protests. Plus, cheap eats galore.

I’m pretty sure I never dragged myself out of bed before 10:00 AM during my college years, but there was a surprising number of students studying and drinking coffee at Aromas Coffeehouse at 8:00 AM! (Everyone was in hoodies and yoga pants. Apparently college fashion has stayed the same since I was there.)

I also loved the Culture Cafe, which had funky small plates — they even had deep-fried cheese curds on the menu.

But even the high-end restaurants in town cater to the students — like Blue Talon Bistro, arguably my favorite restaurant in Williamsburg. You might think that a nicer restaurant would eschew college students — but they actually welcome them. Certain nights of the week, they offer discounted entrees to the students. It’s known as the “special” spot in town, popular for dates and parents’ visits. As a result, many students who marry their college sweethearts in Williamsburg have their rehearsal dinner at the Blue Talon!

Another thing I loved about Williamsburg is that there are so many dogs! We made so many new puppy friends — including a three-month-old American Eskimo dog who had been adopted the day before, was walking on a leash for the first time ever, and whirling around like a tornado!

The Tasting Trail

If you’re a fan of tasting booze along the way, you can visit the Williamsburg Tasting Trail! The Greater Williamsburg region is home to excellent wineries, breweries, and distilleries.

I tried some local whiskies at Copper Fox Distillery. If you’re a whiskey fan in the least, you should stop here because they uniquely use fruitwood peat to flavor their whiskies. You can taste soupçons of cherries, peaches, and apples thanks to using the peat from those trees! You’d be hard-pressed to find that at any other distillery in the world.

If you’re looking to go wine tasting, check out the Williamsburg Winery. We didn’t do any wine tasting, but we did have lunch at Gabriel Archer Tavern, which is part of the winery.

This was another of my favorite meals in Williamsburg. Everything was plated beautifully and their risotto was beyond sensational.

And pretty much every girls’ trip involves you and your friend debating for ten minutes whether you should order dessert, then ordering it and polishing it off in two minutes flat. For me and Oneika, it was the chocolate macadamia cookie ice cream sandwich.

If you’re more into beer, one nice restaurant and brewery is the Amber Ox.

You can get flights of beer — they also have the most delicious pimento cheese and a killer pecan pie!

Unlike a lot of the other restaurants, it’s walking distance from Colonial Williamsburg, so you can indulge a bit and walk back without needing a designated driver.

And if your tastes don’t happen to be as boozy, go for a chocolate tasting instead! We went for A Chocolate Tasting Exploration at Taste Studio for a lesson and demonstration on different types of chocolate. We finished it off with a rich homemade hot chocolate and homemade marshmallows.

Dipping Into Luxury

If you’re looking to treat yourself, Greater Williamsburg is an excellent place to do so. We started out with some spa treatments at The Spa of Colonial Williamsburg.

Whenever I get the opportunity to get a spa treatment, I go for a facial — living in a big city means I get all kinds of gunk and pollution embedded in my skin — and the one in Williamsburg did not disappoint.

My esthetician actually put a pumpkin enzyme mask on me, so I joked that I was getting the full pumpkin spice facial, just in time for fall!

Later that day, we visited the Williamsburg Inn, one of the most famous properties in town. I fell in love the moment I walked in — it was just so grand and peaceful. If you’ve got a late afternoon free, you should absolutely come to the back patio for cocktails.

That evening, we went to the Inn’s restaurant, the Rockefeller Room, for a six-course tasting menu. And was this ever DECADENT!

Every dish was immaculate and the wine pairings were outstanding. My favorite was the champagne-esque sparkling white wine that came from the local area!

My favorite dish of the evening? Olive oil-poached salmon with dukkah, jalapeño yogurt, and cushaw.

Yorktown

“The battle of Yorktown. Seventeen-eighty-one.” I may have whispered this to myself multiple times in Yorktown, as I’m sure any Hamilton fan would!

Yorktown is a short drive from Williamsburg and the site of the battle that ended the American Revolution. You can explore the battlefields or just spend time in the small but lovely town. There’s a beach, too.

For me, the highlight of Yorktown was the excellent American Revolution Museum at Yorktown. There are a few different films, and one told the stories of three lesser-known heroes of the American Revolution — a black man, a white woman, and a Native American man. I was floored. You rarely see these storylines put front and center.

Another film is shown on a curved screen, IMAX-style, and you feel the cannons shoot as smoke swirls around you! It’s such a cool experience and you should sit in the front row.

Also, Oneika and I couldn’t have been more polar opposites in terms of American Revolution history. I grew up outside Boston, going on constant field trips to Revolutionary War-era sites. There’s a historic home on my street dating back to the 1700s — which means there’s a decent chance that Paul Revere or one of the other midnight riders rode through the land on which my childhood home now sits.

Oneika, on the other hand, is Canadian, and thus came in with very little American Revolution knowledge. It was a lot of fun sharing my favorite historical tidbits with her.

OH, AND WE GOT TO DRESS UP IN THE CLOTHES, TOO.

Jamestown

Jamestown brought to mind memories of my technically-honors-but-really-AP US History class in high school, with our teacher telling us his job was to teach us, “Everything that happened from Jamestown until yesterday.” Truthfully, our class lost steam around the 1950s, and that’s why I ended up getting a humiliating 2 on the AP exam (WHY was my essay question about Eisenhower and highways? But I digress…).

Jamestown, of course, was the first permanent English settlement in what is now the United States. It’s also the place where John Smith and Pocahontas met. We visited Historic Jamestowne, a live archaeological site and national park. This was the original settlement — and it wasn’t rediscovered until 1994. That blows my mind.

Historic Jamestowne (with an e!) is part of the Colonial Historical National Park, which also includes Yorktown Battlefield and the Colonial Parkway. There is also the Jamestown Settlement (no e!), a re-created monument with replica ships, James Fort and a Powhatan Village.

After visiting the settlement, we went for a sunset cruise on the Jamestown Discovery.

The Jamestown Discovery is a pontoon boat that takes you along the James River.  And BOY did we have an amazing sunset that night!

It was a casual, low-key way to spend the evening. I love how the boat played tons of 80s hits, culminating with “Don’t Let The Sun Go Down On Me” the moment the sun dipped out of view.

Where We Stayed — the Williamsburg Lodge

The Williamsburg Lodge was a great place to stay. Rooms were elegant, comfortable, and had a bit of the Colonial Williamsburg air without being gimmicky. I enjoyed heading down to the bar one night and listening to some live music while enjoying a glass of local red wine. And the location was ideal, literally right across from Colonial Williamsburg.

Do know that it’s a pet-friendly hotel. The room next to mine had a dog that literally barked every four seconds and it drove me crazy, so I called the front desk and they moved me to another room. Their pet policy says pets aren’t supposed to be left alone and if there’s a complaint about a pet, the owners get a warning; if there’s a second complaint after that, they’re asked to leave the hotel.

Would I stay here again? Absolutely.

The Takeaway

I never would have chosen to go to Greater Williamsburg on my own, so I’m so glad this opportunity came my way! This is a lovely corner of Virginia and a wonderful setting for a girls’ trip.

If I had to choose my absolute favorite activities of the trip, it would be Colonial Williamsburg itself, the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, and the Jamestown Discovery sunset cruise.

My three favorite meals were brunch at the Blue Talon, lunch at Gabriel Archer Tavern, and the six-course tasting menu at the Rockefeller Room at the Williamsburg Inn if you can swing it.

Essential Info: Greater Williamsburg is a 50-minute drive from Richmond Airport and a 20-minute drive from Newport News/Williamsburg International Airport. I was able to fly to Richmond Airport direct from LaGuardia. Definitely rent a car and be sure to be cautious while driving — the speed limits around Colonial Williamsburg are almost comically low and you don’t want to get a ticket.

We stayed at the Williamsburg Lodge. Rates from $116 per night.

Tickets to Colonial Williamsburg are $40.99 for a single day pass and $50.99 for a three-day pass.

Copper Fox Distillery offers free tours every 30 minutes. They also have tastings and seasonal cocktails for a small fee.

The Chocolate Tasting Exploration at Taste Studio costs $22.50.

General admission to the American Revolution Museum at Yorktown is $15 and the Jamestown Settlement is $18, but you can get a combination ticket of both for $25.50. (Read on for more combination tickets.)

You can rent bikes, kayaks, and stand-up paddle boards in Yorktown from Patriot Tours. The Jamestown Discovery sunset cruise costs $22.

There is also a combination ticket that gives you access to all Colonial Williamsburg sites, Historic Jamestowne, Jamestown Settlement, American Revolution Museum at Yorktown, and Yorktown Battlefield, all for seven days. If you plan on visiting each these destinations on your trip, definitely buy this ticket.

You may want to time your Greater Williamsburg visit to avoid major events at the College of William and Mary. We were there during Parents’ Weekend and some of the restaurants in Williamsburg were booked solid. I would especially encourage you to avoid graduation weekend!

Have you been to Greater Williamsburg? Does it seem like your kind of place? Share away!

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